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Thursday, 19 February 2015

The Debate of Plus-Size Models



We, as a society, have a reputation for blowing things out of proportion. We can’t help that whenever someone famous does something insignificant, we need to make it so widespread that it becomes significant. For me, the idea of labelling certain individuals as ‘plus size’ in the world of modelling is a bit of a grey area.

Therefore, I think it’s necessary that I throw a quick disclaimer into the mix; I am in no way clued up on the intricacies of the industry, and to quickly summarise my opinion, I couldn’t care less who’s modelling for what establishment.

If you want to model, then good on you. Size, attractiveness and whatever else models are judged upon are completely subjective opinions which vary from person to person. You may say that one model represents the ‘perfect’ size, or figure, or another quality which appeals to you. I may say that the same person is too thin, and hence this article, which is thinly veiled as a small rant, should be seen as nothing of much significance. I’m not being a social commentator, but I would like to throw an odd sentence or two into the already-saturated mix.



I was looking up the odd article while researching this, and I did find one or two lovely opinions. As with most individuals on the internet, different sentiments were thrown around with conflicting intent. It’s funny how a barrage of capital letters and misspelled swear-words can make the most complex and rounded argument go from excellent to something to be ignored.

One of the most favoured arguments for those who don’t see a problem with a lack of varied women in modelling, is that magazines simply cater for demand; models within a certain height and appearance will be favoured over others because people prefer such sizes. I can appreciate that the industry is just like any other, in that it must provide the customer what it wants in order to succeed. But then, apart from various magazines and agencies, who can actually promote the acceptance of a wider variety of sizes in modelling?

I must also add, everyone should keep their minds open, as a lot of this could easily be attributed to male modelling too, and I for one would be interested to see what the resulting backlash (if there were one) would look like. After all, when was the last time you remember seeing a visibly-larger male model?

Let’s put gender aside for now and get back to the previous notion: just because something isn’t in demand doesn’t mean it should remain without representation. In an ideal world, models in media would represent all the different shapes and sizes which are present in society, and I personally think that is a relatively reasonable concept to strive for. If we had models of all sizes, in every medium in which they are frequently employed, then I could safely bet that people would be a bit more confident with themselves. We might even appear to be a society that is more accepting of differences within it; not one which makes everyone endeavour to an elitist ideal. Can you imagine that?

But I think the crucial concern of the matter is what constitutes a ‘plus-size model’. For Calvin Klein, that’s roughly a UK size 14. I for one think it’s an absurd concept.

Thankfully, most people I’ve talked to seem to agree that a size 14 lady should be regarded as a ‘model’, not a ‘plus-size model’. Of course, a lot of people have different opinions on what sizes are excessive, and what sizes are too small, and I’m not in a position to try and change that for you.

However, when a medically-spotless, perfectly healthy women who happens to be the most comfortable in size 14 is regarded as too big, that’s when I start getting a little bit cautious of using, or going anywhere near, the concept of ‘plus size models’. At that point, I start questioning the opinions of those who organise modelling agencies, and those who are high up in the industry.

Keep in mind that models as small as a size 6 (yup, a size 6) are sometimes considered to be ‘plus size’. I thought that the concept of pressuring women to aspire to a certain size was thrown out of the window years ago, but apparently not. Some seem to regard inducing anorexia and anxiety in women as absolutely fine, and when such a small size (an unachievable ideal for most) is considered to still be in excess of what is to be desired, something is up.

So, most of the talent in the industry meet the criteria for anorexia, in terms of their body mass index. That, and some more worryingly hidden facts can be found scattered across the net, but I found the best article on the matter came from Edward Lovett, at ABC News.

The other side of this coin is that ‘larger’ women are becoming more comfortable and more confident, hence their growing role in the industry. That’s good; it means that the fashion industry is becoming more representative of the actual size of women, and it means that the expectation of becoming a size 0 is slowly diminishing. But still, the ‘plus size’ label means that intentionally, or inadvertently, a degree of societal shaming is still occurring.

While I hate the term ‘plus-size model’, I can see why it is sometimes used as an accurate depiction of a person’s weight in regards to what is actually healthy, and not what is considered healthy by society. Personally, any weight, size or shape can be regarded as absolutely fine. As I said earlier, if you want to model, then good on you. But, I think if ‘plus size’ is going to regretfully remain the vocabulary of tabloids and media outlets, then the same needs to be pointed out for models who are medically regarded as underweight.

We, as realistic adults, can admit that both ‘skinny-shaming’ and ‘fat-shaming’ are going to continue, regardless of what we do. These terms are unfortunate and inevitable results of an industry focused on vanity and appearances. Some people’s opinions are immune to change, which is good. If everyone had the same opinion, we’d be a lot worse off as a whole. So my ideal for this rather intricate dilemma of varied subjective opinions is as followed:

First of all, let anyone be a model. I mean anyone. I mean regardless of size, facial features, figure, and more importantly, regardless of conditions or disabilities (I think that’s a more significant matter, but I’ll leave that for another article). In doing so, everyone is fairly represented.


Tess Holliday, or Tess Munster, one of the recent models who inadvertently kicked off the debate.

Secondly, get rid of what fashion labels and model agencies consider to be ‘plus size’. Ideally, replace this with an accurate medical label instead. I’m glad that women who are size 22 are into modelling, and that they are ‘empowering’ similar women in doing so, (see Tess Holliday), but people should know that this is medically unhealthy if it can be prevented. If it can be helped, and is solely the choice of model, such sizes could be labelled as ‘plus size’, but similarly if a model is medically underweight, they could be labelled as ‘minus size’, or whatever other term is promoted by tabloids.

Being excessively large or disproportionately small are equally unhealthy. Neither should be promoted as favourable lifestyles, but both should be accepted. It’s fair to label those as obese as ‘plus size’, but only on the condition that we point out those who are the opposite too. That last section sounded like I intended to separate out bits of society in an attempt to promote a perfect ideal, and I can assure you that it wasn’t my intention. All should be welcome, as long as those on either end of the spectrum are aware of their position. Don’t promote a certain size; let people be whatever they want. I’d much rather society play the role of a middleman with good intent, pointing out extremes, as opposed to being an elitist figurehead which makes the remaining majority feel awful about themselves.

To finish off, I’d oddly like to disregard the majority of my previous rant/argument. Everyone seems to have forgotten that some women, and men, are simply born differently. I for one am overweight for my age and size, according to my BMI. Granted, I’m only a few additional pounds into the overweight category, but I am overweight nonetheless. Has it stopped me, or impeded any aspect of my everyday life? Not necessarily, but I can understand why it would for others. If I’m at a pub and see other gents walking round with just a slim shirt on, and I’m stood there with an open jacket, I do occasionally become a little jealous, as they appear to portray confidence that I don’t have in wearing a particular item of clothing.

Some people may have broad shoulders or wider hips, so need larger sizes to accommodate them. A friend of mine has to resort to XL men’s shirts, not because he’s overweight, but because he’s tall. In the perfect world, we would stop judging people for such factors, ones which they understandably cannot help. It’s entirely possible to be classified as underweight in accordance with your BMI, but still be relatively large in your frame. But apparently some agencies and magazines would prefer it if such people didn’t attempt modelling.

If only we could shake off the false ideals of being too large or too small. I appreciate that some people find different things attractive, but imagine how much easier (and arguably happier) the world would be if we could achieve such indifference. I look forward to the day when tabloids run articles regarding a different sized model doing a photoshoot, and how commentators would simply reply with remarks such as “that’s good”, or “good for them”, rather than leaving spiteful insults.


Maybe it’s not just sizes, or personal preferences. Maybe some people just need to cheer up and stop being dicks.